some wear leather some wear lace the worldwide compendium of postpunk and goth in the 1980s

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Some Wear Leather Some Wear Lace

Author : Andi Harriman
ISBN : 9781783203529
Genre : Music
File Size : 43. 12 MB
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Sexbeat s self-titled song is definitive of the postpunk scene. It describes the originality, the freedom and the communal spirit of a subculture: old, young, poor, and rich a group that accepted it all. Released in 1983, the song is a generation s anthem about a scene caught between the outbreak of punk and grunge. With more complexity than punk and more darkness than pop s cheerful mentality, postpunk maintained prosperity because of its atmosphere and romance. The movement in its inception was nameless. It, as we found, has many definitions and associations. Some original members of the scene referred to themselves as punks, others new romantics, new wavers, the bats, or the morbids, for example. Goth often did not become a term until the late 1980s or, in some countries such as Peru, a label in the 1990s. Therefore, postpunk in all its variety, is deemed as the "single" word that encompasses all evolutions of the 1980s proto-punk alternative movement. In one decade, the genre evolved, grew darker and crossed borders: from Argentina to the Netherlands, Greece to Canada and Belgium to Japan. Even though the postpunk and goth timeline varied between countries, the movement began at approximately 1978 and concluded around 1992. Some regions reflected the economic challenges and sentiments towards social issues, while others relied on the individual desire to gain solace in a subculture that accepted diversity. To identify and encompass the words postpunk and goth are arduous since everyone has a different perspective on such definitions. There is no "one "truth about their timeline or attributes. Therefore, this book""is about the music, the individual, and the creativity of a worldwide community rather than theoretical definitions of a subculture. Though not a complete historical essay on postpunk and goth, "Some Wear Leather, Some Wear Lace" is a visual and oral history of the first decade of the scene. The team found and interviewed both the performers and the audience in order to capture the community both on and off stage. Participants of the project dug through their personal archives for photographs of their past and these are placed alongside professional photography. By combining both personal collections and professional images, a unique range of fashions, bands and scenes are revealed within these pages. "

Goth

Author : Lauren M. E. Goodlad
ISBN : 9780822389705
Genre : Social Science
File Size : 68. 40 MB
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Since it first emerged from Britain’s punk-rock scene in the late 1970s, goth subculture has haunted postmodern culture and society, reinventing itself inside and against the mainstream. Goth: Undead Subculture is the first collection of scholarly essays devoted to this enduring yet little examined cultural phenomenon. Twenty-three essays from various disciplines explore the music, cinema, television, fashion, literature, aesthetics, and fandoms associated with the subculture. They examine goth’s many dimensions—including its melancholy, androgyny, spirituality, and perversity—and take readers inside locations in Los Angeles, Austin, Leeds, London, Buffalo, New York City, and Sydney. A number of the contributors are or have been participants in the subculture, and several draw on their own experiences. The volume’s editors provide a rich history of goth, describing its play of resistance and consumerism; its impact on class, race, and gender; and its distinctive features as an “undead” subculture in light of post-subculture studies and other critical approaches. The essays include an interview with the distinguished fashion historian Valerie Steele; analyses of novels by Anne Rice, Poppy Z. Brite, and Nick Cave; discussions of goths on the Internet; and readings of iconic goth texts from Bram Stoker’s Dracula to James O’Barr’s graphic novel The Crow. Other essays focus on gothic music, including seminal precursors such as Joy Division and David Bowie, and goth-influenced performers such as the Cure, Nine Inch Nails, and Marilyn Manson. Gothic sexuality is explored in multiple ways, the subjects ranging from the San Francisco queercore scene of the 1980s to the increasing influence of fetishism and fetish play. Together these essays demonstrate that while its participants are often middle-class suburbanites, goth blurs normalizing boundaries even as it appears as an everlasting shadow of late capitalism. Contributors: Heather Arnet, Michael Bibby, Jessica Burstein, Angel M. Butts, Michael du Plessis, Jason Friedman, Nancy Gagnier, Ken Gelder, Lauren M. E. Goodlad, Joshua Gunn, Trevor Holmes, Paul Hodkinson, David Lenson, Robert Markley, Mark Nowak, Anna Powell, Kristen Schilt, Rebecca Schraffenberger, David Shumway, Carol Siegel, Catherine Spooner, Lauren Stasiak, Jeffrey Andrew Weinstock

Blitz

Author : Iain R. Webb
ISBN : 1851497234
Genre : Design
File Size : 36. 29 MB
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"BLITZ provided a beautiful flamboyance in the '80s... When you and I met up it was an eye-opening moment for me. You showed me a life that was different to how I had perceived it." Nick Knight "BLITZ completely changed the perception of beauty. There

Gothic

Author : Valerie Steele
ISBN : STANFORD:36105131667284
Genre : Art
File Size : 71. 71 MB
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From its origins in the eighteenth-century literature of terror to its contemporary manifestations in vampire fiction, cinema, and art, the gothic has embraced the powers of horror and the erotic macabre. “Gothic” is an epithet with a strange history – evoking images of death, destruction, and decay. Ironically, its negative connotations have made the gothic an ideal symbol of rebellion for a wide range of cultural outsiders. Popularly associated with black-clad teenagers and rock musicians, gothic fashion encompasses not only subcultural styles (from old-school goth to cyber-goth and beyond) but also high fashion by such designers as Alexander McQueen, John Galliano of Christian Dior, Rick Owens, Olivier Theyskens, and Yohji Yamamoto. Fashion photographers, such as Sean Ellis and Eugenio Recuenco, have also drawn on the visual vocabulary of the gothic to convey narratives of dark glamour. As the text and lavish illustrations in this book suggest, gothic fashion has deep cultural roots that give it an enduring potency.

Untypical Girls

Author : Sam Knee
ISBN : 190871445X
Genre :
File Size : 66. 44 MB
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A photographic archive of the looks and attitudes of women in independent music in the UK and US.

A Scene In Between

Author : Sam Knee
ISBN : 1908714069
Genre : Music
File Size : 43. 55 MB
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A photographic book surveying the little documented underground indie music and fashion scene in 1980s Britain.

78 87 London Youth

Author :
ISBN : 8862084056
Genre : Photography
File Size : 49. 25 MB
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The new collector's edition of Derek Ridgers' 78-87 London Youth includes a numbered C-print, signed by Ridgers, titled "Tuinol Barry, Kings Road 1983." Taken in the streets, clubs, basements and bars of London between 1978 and 1987, the photographs in this volume celebrate the many mutations in London's youth culture. Ridgers (born 1950) has documented the perennial youth ritual of dressing up and going out since he first picked up a camera in 1975. These photographs capture punk's evolution into goth, the skinhead revival and the New Romantic scene, and the eventual emergence of Acid House and the new psychedelia. Among those portrayed are Boy George, Neneh Cherry, Leigh Bowery and his boyfriend Trojan, Michael Alig, John Galliano, Hamish Bowles, Cerith Wyn Evans, Steve Strange, and Martin Kemp and Steve Norman of Spandau Ballet.

The Story Of The Face

Author : Paul Gorman
ISBN : 0500293473
Genre : Design
File Size : 35. 94 MB
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A landmark publication offering a definitive overview of one of the most influential transatlantic magazines produced in the 1980s and 1990s

Consuming Youth

Author : Robert Latham
ISBN : 0226467023
Genre : Literary Criticism
File Size : 40. 67 MB
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From the novels of Anne Rice to The Lost Boys, from The Terminator to cyberpunk science fiction, vampires and cyborgs have become strikingly visible figures within American popular culture, especially youth culture. In Consuming Youth, Rob Latham explains why, showing how fiction, film, and other media deploy these ambiguous monsters to embody and work through the implications of a capitalist system in which youth both consume and are consumed. Inspired by Marx's use of the cyborg vampire as a metaphor for the objectification of physical labor in the factory, Latham shows how contemporary images of vampires and cyborgs illuminate the contradictory processes of empowerment and exploitation that characterize the youth-consumer system. While the vampire is a voracious consumer driven by a hunger for perpetual youth, the cyborg has incorporated the machineries of consumption into its own flesh. Powerful fusions of technology and desire, these paired images symbolize the forms of labor and leisure that American society has staked out for contemporary youth. A startling look at youth in our time, Consuming Youth will interest anyone concerned with film, television, and popular culture.

The Art Of Gothic

Author : Natasha Scharf
ISBN : 1783052635
Genre : Art, Modern
File Size : 64. 87 MB
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Dressed head-to-toe in black, often with extreme make-up, the gothic look has been a popular once since the 1980s. Gothic art is about more than just album covers and ephemera; it's about fashion, book jackets, cinematography, computer graphics and fine arts. And its influence frequently seeps through into mainstream culture.The first ever English language collection of gothic images available. Features 224 pages of gothic photography and artwork. Contains up to date references that encompass the modern gothic movement as well as the original movement that came from punk. Gathers imagery from around the world, including previously unpublished photographs and artwork. Each chapter includes two special features, including profiles of influential artists or styles. Features articles on the work of well-known artists such as Anne Sudworth and Roman Dirge as well as graphic design teams Parched Art, Leisure Process and 23 Envelope.

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